Nepal: Part 2, in which we traverse the Manaslu and Tsum Valleys

We just wrapped up a 22 day trek up (and down) the Manaslu and Tsum valleys, in central Nepal. Both run up to the Tibetan border, and are populated by Tibetans at the upper ends. Tsum runs through the Gamesh Himal, and Manaslu the eponymous Manaslu Himal. Both have many 7,000 meter peaks, while Manaslu itself tops 8,100m, or about 25,000 feet. But the highest we got was 14,000 feet or so at a monestary at the top of the Tsum; most of the trek was in the 6,000-12,000 foot range. 

It's surprising how subtropical it is in the Himalayas. For days we walked up a hot river valley (well, more like a gorge), surrounded by rice paddies and banana trees. It wasn't until about 8,000 feet that it started to feel alpine, and even then there were thick forests and monkeys all the way up to 12,000 ft. Watching the landscape and scenery shift is one of the weird things about hiking here. You can literally spend weeks approaching and climbing a single hill or pass, moving from jungle to forest to subalpine to alpine. Along the way, the people shift as well, from Indian-Nepali to Tibetan, with commensurate changes in architecture, food, agriculture, and customs.

When we set out, we had intended to cross the Larkye La pass into the Annapurna region. But a few days before we started, a massive, unseasonal typhoon dropped a few meters of snow up high. Scores of trekkers and locals were killed by avalanches and blizzard conditions in the northern regions.  Two weeks later, as we approached the pass, we learned it was still icy and dangerous. So we turned back after getting some great views of the Manaslu range from the ancient village of Samagoan. 

A week later, we're now relaxing in Nepal's original capital of Gorkha, a very pleasant town, and headed to the resort town of Pokhara tomorrow. After a few days there, we're hoping to set off on an independent (no guide, no porter) trek through the Annapurna sanctuary (which involves no high, icy passes).

Having a guide for three weeks was more challenging than expected. Language and customs prevented effective communication at times, and there were some very frustrating moments. But all was well in the end, although we're still not sold on the value-add provided by a guide in an age of maps, compasses, and GPS. Our porter Surya, though, was invaluable for our knees and sanity. He would gladly share a beer or rakshi (local rice wine) with us and patiently taught us some Nepali, helping to remind us that we're all just people, cultural frustrations aside. Surya is 26, and earns $10/day for waking up mountains with someone else's kit on his back.  But he's always smiling.

We have also realized that Nepali food is singularly well suited for trekking. Most days included at least one meal of dahl baht - lentil soup, rice, veggie curry, and often sautéed greens (although those stopped at the higher elevations) -- served in all-you-can-eat portions. The guides would pack away 3 plates each night, Brook 2, and Erin at least 1. The lodging was also surprisingly civilized: we had beds all but two nights, in private rooms at small lodges. There's even hot showers at a few places, or at least a way to take a cold wash-up. Our only real issues were a 5-day stomach bug (Erin) and week-long mild cold (Brook). But no altitude problems or even serious blisters. 

After a year of this, our major problem is probably Brook's boots. First, the almost complete lack of tread remaining. Secondly, and arguably more important, the smell. But with only a few weeks left, we'll somehow muddle through...

After 10 months away, even here in the Himalayas, we're starting to itch for home. Our own bathroom would be nice for starters, along with decent beer, wine, and a burger you can trust. We miss you, dear reader, and following this final jaunt in the mountains, we look forward to catching up.  In person.

p.s. No photos for now. Internet in Nepal is way too slow for that... But we'll post albums from the trek when we get a chance.